Thinking about buying a camera but don't have a clue where to
start? We're here to help. And even if you know it all, you may find
some alternatives you hadn't considered. If you're standing in the middle of a store wondering what to buy, start with our current top picks:
Why get a camera when you've got one in your phone?
Many
cameras have or support real zoom lenses which cover a much bigger
range than the computational zoom used by some dual-lens phone cameras.
(That's when they combine information from the two different
focal-length cameras to provide a photo that's better than what you'd
get with digital zoom, but not as good as true optical zoom.)
Despite
all the advances in phone cameras -- and phone marketing -- they still
can't match the quality, speed or control of a good dedicated camera.
So some people like to use a separate camera for special events.
Not every phone has a good camera and not every phone with a good camera is a great phone. You might want both.
General tips
There is no spec that tells you which camera is best. And few specs can be taken at face value.
Resolution ("megapixels") doesn't matter
unless you're a pro or already understand why. Sensor size, autofocus
system and image-stabilization system are among the features that do.
Don't get hung up on making sure you've got the "best" or newest
in a particular class. The truth is, one camera rarely beats the rest
on all four major criteria -- photo quality, performance, features and
design. And last-year's (or even the year before's) models tend to be
perfectly fine as well as a lot cheaper.
Try before you buy. Make
sure it fits comfortably in your hand and that it's not so big or heavy
that you'll prefer to leave it at home. It should provide quick access
to the most commonly used functions, and menus should be simply
structured, logical and easy to learn. Touchscreen models can allow for
greater functionality, but can also be frustrating if the controls and
menus are poorly organized.
Lori Grunin/CNET
Interchangeable or fixed lens?
Interchangeable-lens cameras (ILCs) are dSLRs or mirrorless models. The advantages of an ILC over a fixed lens model is:
You can always buy a better lens to improve photo quality and performance.
If you need a wider or narrower angle of view, you can always get another lens to cover it.
You can get a faster (i.e., wider maximum aperture) lens if you need better low-light performance.
Fixed-lens cameras come in two flavors: bridge cameras (the ones that
look like dSLRs and have really long lenses) and compacts (formerly
point-and-shoots, which for the most part have been replaced by
phones). The advantages of a fixed-lens camera over an ILC:
The compacts tend to be much smaller.
The bridge cameras tend to cover a zoom range that would be prohibitively expensive and/or heavy in a standalone lens.
Swapping lenses on an ILC can be a pain.
Frequently, the kit lenses that ship with ILCs frequently aren't as high quality or wide-aperture as the fixed lenses.
Many people never buy a second lens, anyway.
Mirrorless or dSLR?If you decide to go for an ILC, you then have to choose between a dSLR
vs. a mirrorless. Sadly, many people have it fixed in their heads that
dSLRs are the be-all and end-all of high-quality, high-speed
photography. Not true.
The image quality for mirrorless models is
extremely similar to that of a dSLR with the same size sensor and an equivalent lens,
and the performance of the midrange and higher-end mirrorless models
has gotten really competitive, with sophisticated autofocus systems and
fast continuous-shooting speeds.
Keep in mind that you're usually better
off spending more money on a better lens than on a more expensive body. The advantages of a dSLR over mirrorless are:
DSLR's
use optical viewfinders, and a cheap dSLR's optical viewfinder is
usually better than the electronic viewfinder (EVF) on an inexpensive mirrorless for shooting action where the EVF may not refresh quickly enough. That gap is narrowing, though.
The battery life of a dSLR -- any dSLR -- is better than that of most mirrorless cameras.
You
can use old lenses from film cameras without an adapter, and because
dSLRs have been around so long there's a huge selection to choose from.
Current-model cheap dSLRs tend to be cheaper than current entry-level mirrorless cameras.
The advantages of a mirrorless over a dSLR:
Most
of them are smaller, and their lenses concomitantly smaller, than a
dSLR's. Micro Four Thirds lenses (Olympus, Panasonic) are smaller than
those for APS-C cameras (everybody else).
Shooting
video with a good mirrorless is a much better experience than shooting
with a dSLR because the view through the LCD and autofocus performance
makes it easier and requires less rigging out.
The
lack of a mirror makes a lot of features with real-time preview
possible, like watching a long exposure build and mixing and matching
filters.
The newer, midrange to expensive
mirrorless models have better image stabilization (IS) than dSLRs
because the latest IS technologies intelligently combine sensor shift
and optical IS, while (at best) dSLRs use optical combined with less
powerful digital IS (but usually just optical).
How important is photo quality?
If the answer is "very," then you should consider sensor size in your
decision. As a rule of thumb, bigger is better. The trade-off is that
the bigger the sensor, the more expensive the camera tends to be.
Is the quality and control over video important?
If you just want to shoot casual video, then you want a camera with
good autofocus. For something better, you need 4K support plus
advanced features like all-intra (All-I) codecs, customizes able tone
curves, lots of frame rate options and touchscreen controls.
How important is low-light quality?
If it's important, you have to compare maximum native
ISO sensitivity capability (not the "Hi" or expanded ranges), choose
the largest sensor size you can afford and a system with good image
stabilization so you can use slow shutter speeds.
Do you need a really long zoom?
Cameras with big zoom ranges tend to cover all the bases, so they make
good travel cameras. They're only useful for shooting sports if they
have really good autofocus systems, though. Here are some rules of thumb
for selecting lens focal lengths:
Ultra-wide angle (less than 18 mm) is good for very large scenes where lens distortion adds rather than detracts from the appeal
Wide-angle (around 18 mm to 30 mm) is good for group shots, landscapes and street photography
Telephoto (about 70 mm to 300 mm) is good for portraits and sports
Normal (about 30 mm to 70 mm) is good for portraits and snapshots
Supertelephoto (greater than 300 mm) is good for sports, wildlife and stalking
How important is speed?
The days of worrying about shutter lag are pretty much over. Now you
just need to make sure the autofocus system is fast and accurate enough
to capture the type of scenes you want. The exception is if you intend
to shoot action. If you do, then you want a camera that not only has
excellent autofocus and fast continuous shooting, you need one that
offers decent photo quality in the ISO 800-ISO 6400 range because you'll
need to bump it up there to set a sufficiently fast shutter speed
(usually upwards of 1/500 sec) to capture the action you want and still
maintain a correct exposure.
Are you planning to photograph in the wild?
Look for good body construction with dust-and-weather sealing. Only a
handful of cameras are also coldproofed down to 14°F/-10°C or
submersible without a housing. If you plan to be away from a way to
recharge for more than a day, you should consider that dSLRs have
significantly better battery life. Or be prepared to buy a handful of
extra batteries for any other type of camera.
Will you use wireless a lot?
While almost every camera incorporates Wi-Fi (or Bluetooth as a cheap
alternative) to upload photos, not all the implementations are created
equal. Definitely search the web for complaints about the apps or
connection issues before settling on a camera.
Do you want a viewfinder?
Viewfinders are really helpful for anyone when shooting in direct
sunlight when you can't see the LCD. In addition, when looking through a
viewfinder your arms are down at your sides which makes it easier to
hold steady than the arms-outstretched alternative.
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